Slide the "box" end of your ***" box-end wrench over the top of the valve.

First, ensure all of the old fuel has been removed from the lantern. Insert and tighten the set screw to lock the air intake tube in place. Turn the pump shaft clockwise again to lock, then observe your work. I have used one photo for different lantern and stove lessons. And don't forget to look at the bottom of the fount as that is where holes caused from internal rust will be. Get your pump plunger and remove any motor oil that may still remain after cleaning (Figure 30A). As described in a 1920s US Patent filed by the Coleman Lantern and Stove Company, "The fuel tanks usually contain liquid under pressure, so there is an air space above the liquid. You can treat your old painted fount just like an old painted car. It is also made from soft brass. Figure 34 shows what your lantern should like now. Dip a wet rag (a sponge will work) in the Lime-a-Way/CLR and rub the fount gently. Rubbing compound can be very abrasive and a little spray cleaner will reduce the abrasiveness and makes the cleaning process much easier. You should still have plenty of pressure in the lantern, and your tip cleaner lever should be facing down. At some point, when it is most of the way in, it will meet the eccentric block.

The last turn will get very tight just as it approaches that 30 degrees to the left of the valve stem. When it is up, the tip cleaner protrudes the gas tip to keep the small hole clean. Place the filler cap over it and tighten clockwise to where it just starts to snug, then stop. Push down on the rod with your finger.

When you hear this change, shut the valve off. While holding the generator like this, gently position the crooked end of the stem into the small hole in the exposed eccentric block as shown in Figure 36A. Place it in your hand and spray with household cleaner as shown in Figure 23A. Spin your lantern around so you can see the screw on the back side of the tip cleaner (Figure 2A). Be careful not to scratch the paint or nickel around the hole. The pages contained here are intended for the use of amateur collectors and people interested in Coleman collecting, restoration and repair as a hobby. Be gentle and don't disturb the frame rest.

Now you can set the pump cap down onto the fount. Congratulations! The valve stem nut follows the second ring and the stem is ready to install in the valve body. If your fount has the brown anti-rust coating inside, it may have flaked off if the p.o. Get your valve stem, valve stem nut, the brass keeper rings and a new valve stem packing. If it doesn't, loosen the filler cap and listen for air escaping. The rugged and straight forward design of these reliable lanterns makes them ideal for a wide range of leisure and work based outdoor activities. A lantern rebuild is not rocket science and this website can provide every part and tidbit of information you will need to finish the job correctly. Pay particular attention to the valve/fount joint, all over and under the fount and around the valve nut. Place the valve body in your bench vise, or hold it with pliers as I am doing in Figure 13A. When this occurs you'll note the eccentric block is moving up and down as in Figure 33B.

Pry the tip cleaner shaft out from inside the generator, so that the crooked end is extended about 1/2". It goes without saying to refrain from political posts, personal attacks and inflammatory posts. Note: Any hole in the fount that was not put there by Coleman renders the fount unsafe to use. If you don't have a replacement or are unable to purchase the check valve extractor tools locally, I strongly urge you to stop and just clean the check valve. Coleman Dual Fuel Lantern. Grab the jamb nut and the generator tube and lift them both up, exposing the cleaner rod and eccentric block as in Figure 1C. Insert the screwdriver into the cylinder and into the check valve slot. When it is seated correctly it will look like the gasket in Figure 17C.

And before you start PLEASE read the safety page. Set the fount back down and spray more cleaner down the cylinder. When clean, wash them off with warm water and dry with a rag and set aside. Next take a small flat-tip screwdriver and remove the small screw in the center of the valve wheel. If you have access to compressed air, insert your air nozzle into the filler hole and blow out the moisture inside. Let it sit for a few seconds. The intent here is to plunge out the small bottom hole of the tube with the rod, which is a perfect fit. With steady pressure turn the valve counter-clockwise. It should not slide down real easily. Turn the valve clockwise until the threads catch properly and then screw it in until it stops. If you are going to remove the check valve, skip over the next step. Note the fuel & air tube that was inside the fount. Next we are going to take those parts that can be soaked and put them in the cola bath.

The odd thing is that when I turn the lantern upside down it works fine, plenty of fuel supply. During start-up, the fuel & air tube takes the (highly impregnated) air at the top of the fount and delivers it to the burner. Better to have a dark spot then to lose all the lettering around it. If you bend the fount a little don't sweat it. The fuel & air tube is a magical invention that changed the way we light lamps, lanterns and stoves. However, before we move on, we need to cover the fuel & air tube. The valve and the fount hole are tapered and will seal when the valve becomes tight. Out of stock. If you need a faster response I recommend the bulletin board service at If the pump rises, your check valve is leaking. This is okay as we'll get it out in a minute. The next design improvement was the invention of the fuel & air tube. Tighten down the filler cap and then unlock the pump plunger. This will lock the insert and gasket down on the fount so you can get the screw out.

Ensure holes in the cap are aligned with the holes in the font (Figure 31A) and that oil hole is towards to top of the cap. Get your old generator and pull the stem out of it so we can use it as a tool.

Try again with your fingers but resort to the rag-and-pliers approach if necessary. We won't discuss buffing or bead blasting so you can use the items you already have. Note that you may have to soak small parts (filler cap, jamb nut, etc.) Lift the frame off of the frame rest as in Figure 6B. So what goes up and down? With compressed air, or by blowing into the shaft, remove all of the oil from the inside of the pump shaft.

Insert the bottom of the air tube into the hole in the bottom of the tip cleaner body as in Figure 35A. You're finished with your lantern rebuild. With your permission I'll add it to "User Stories" in the Collecting section. With a medium flat tip screwdriver, turn the filler cap screw counter-clockwise as shown in Figure 12A. Remove the rod and spray some more cleaner into the large end. Place the spring over the thin end of the rod and then place the rod down inside the tube at the big end as shown in Figure 26A. Place your thumb over the hole in the pump end and give 5 slow and deliberate strokes.

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